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Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

21 April 2017

Quick trips: Pittsburgh

I used Pittsburgh as my home base last week for a couple of university appearances, and I will preface this post with the truth: you could spend a lot more time in Pitt doing a lot more super cool things. But here's a little something to get you started while you're buying your opera tickets and looking up all your favorite galleries.

Lawrenceville neighborhood:
Coca Cafe has to-die-for egg sandwiches with kimchi, excellent coffee, and a chill, funky vibe just a few blocks off the Allegheny River. Afterwards, talk a short hilly stroll to enjoy the Art Deco architecture of Arsenal Middle School and the grandiose Zion Evangelical Lutheran Church, which kind of transports you back to Victorian Europe. Pints on Penn makes for a break across the street from 19th Century composer Stephen Foster's home, too.

 


















Crafton neighborhood:
Authentic family-style Italian-American food is pretty easy to come by in Pittsburgh, but I loved Sarafino's for its raucous close-knit atmosphere, perfectly dressed pasta (the red clam sauce was delish), and a soaked almond creme cake which puts all other cakes to shame. They don't serve alcohol, so make like the locals and come prepared with your own bottle or two (or in one case, a martini shaker and various bottles of brightly-colored liquors). Big Daddy's Donuts is good, too, but be forewarned, they're not actually open 24/7 as some websites might say. They are super fresh.





Some other cools stuff to see:
Andy Warhol Museum
Heinz History Center, with a display of Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood
Nationality Rooms at University of Pittsburgh, honoring the various origins of Pittsburgh's melting pot

05 August 2016

Aspiring plans for a trip to Maine

I was meant to be in Portland, Maine right now, but here I sit, sweating in my wooden chair from Ikea in northern Colorado, drinking a Coors Light. If any of you get the chance to try out this itinerary before I do, can you let us all know how it goes? (Thanks to NYTimes, Serious Eats, and Design*Sponge for all the suggestions).



Drink
Stop for a drink on the deck of Portland Lobster Co.where a local band might be playing blues or rock.  Liquid Riot Bottling Co. is a restaurant, bar, and also a distillery and brewing establishment, churning out an impressive list of libations, including beer, rum, whiskey, vodka and what its website touts as “Maine’s first Fernet.” Or try the kombucha, mead, and fruit beers at Urban Farm Fermentory.

Food
Eat an overflowing plate of fried clams on the skeevy patio of 3 Buoys Seafood Shanty & GrilleHave blueberry pie at Two Fat Cats Bakery. Belgian fries at Duckfat. Spudnuts at  the Holy Donut.  And for dinner,  Scales looks pricey, but the menu recently included a creamy, briny lobster bisque and pan-roasted halibut with hazelnuts and brown butter. Order the Parker House rolls if only for the raw cream butter served alongside. Dinner, about $80, with drinks.

The seating is communal and the dishes are funky at Honey Paw, an East-meets-New England menu including smoked lamb khao soi, with house-made noodles, fermented mustard greens, lime and Burmese coconut curry, and lobster won tons with confit mushrooms. Get small plates at Central Provisionswith dishes like rich caramelized sheep cheese embedded with Bosc pear slices.

Becky’s Diner has kitschy Formica tables beneath a press-tinned ceiling and fills you up on buttermilk pancakes, eggs done any way you want, and huge sides of home fries for cheap. Oh yeah, they have lobster rolls later in the day, too.
  


Travel
 Portland Observatory: Climb the 104 stairs of this former maritime signaling tower, which offers a 360-degree view. Captain Moody, who originally built this place, has a burial site among the tombs and tilting gravestones in nearby Eastern Cemetery, which is also supposed to be quite lovely.

Below a row of rambling, mostly turn-of-the-last-century houses, the Eastern Promenade is one of two parks that curve around either side of old Portland. Above the bayside trail, Fort Allen Park, with its gazebo and sloping lawn, offers a serene glimpse of the bay. Several blocks away is the wood-and-brick Abyssinian Meeting House, once a hub on Portland’s Underground Railroad and one of more than a dozen sites on the city’sFreedom TrailPortland had a robust anti-slavery movement:who knew?

CatchCasco Bay Lines’ ferry to Peaks Island. Rent a bike at CycleMania in East Bayside and hit the trails. One choice for an hour-long ride is the Back Cove trail, which curves 3.6 miles around a circular cove.

 the Portland Museum of Art offers weekly tours of native son Winslow Homer's home and studio, as well as some 18,000 works by artists like N.C. and Andrew Wyeth, Alex Katz, Louise Nevelson, Monet, Matisse and Kandinsky, among others. Congress Street has lots of galleries, including She-Bear, with a strong focus on regional artists, and Space, a visual arts and performance arts venue. The Wadsworth-Longfellow House, dating from the late 18th century, is also nearby, and has a great garden for contemplating the meaning of life. Danforth Street, is home toVictoria Mansion, an Italianate mansion with a grand flying staircase and lavish interiors by Gustave Herter.




15 July 2016

Traveling meals

As a freelance musician, I spend a lot of time traveling when I should be sitting at the dining room table with a healthy meal. I have attempted to eat cold leftover spaghetti while driving through a snow storm (super, duper bad idea), I have been mid-swig of coffee while getting rear-ended by a teenage boy who can't drive and sneeze at the same time (still have the stain on my ceiling), and I have certainly succumbed many times to the gut bombs that are fast joints and, worse yet, gas station "delis".  I've decided that, upholstery and clothing stains not withstanding, packing my own food is best because a) classical music doesn't pay well and b) I often feel like I'm truly about to die for at least eight hours after eating a Whopper Jr. Oh, c) something about being healthy. But really, it's a) and b).

Normal people can also get friendlier with packing meals for the same reasons. Whether you want to stop eating out of vending machines at work, wish to avoid the outrageous prices for tasteless food at the airport, or are just looking for some new ideas for picnics (my favorite part of hiking), it's really easy to pack something delicious to reward you for putting on grown-up clothes and leaving the house. And this stuff will all keep unrefrigerated for a respectable amount of time.

WRAPS
The insipid "healthy choice" of the 90s really is a great idea for travel. I never liked them much, maybe because the only wheat wraps I could find at the store tasted like cardboard. But now I use sheets of nori (you know that stuff you bought when you were going to get all fancy and make sushi, then you realized making sushi sucks? That stuff.), rice paper wrappers (the stuff you make spring rolls out of), or big leaves of collards, Swiss chard, or whatever else is growing in the garden.  I actually love them.

I'll start by sharing this adorable video of a very capable but unenthusiastic young Brit making a wrap (Sweet Jesus, that's a lot of butter).


You don't even have to close the ends if your nori or greens won't cooperate. In fact, here's a nice little blog post on using nori. The only trick with rice paper is soaking it briefly--follow package directions. Now,  let's use some more interesting ingredients.

Spreads: Tuscan white bean dip, walnut-feta spread, and North African party dip all work great as a tasty glue in your wrap. So does guacamole, for that matter.  NOT BUTTER.

Grains: Use something sticky, like short-grain white or brown rice. Stir a little bit of vinegar into it if you want a flavor evocative of sushi.

Protein: Chopped hard boiled egg, mashed up beans (in place of a spread, above), cheese of any kind, or any leftover cooked meat will do. Try to stay away from those deli meats, though--they're nasty, and I care about you.

Vegetables: I try to avoid veggies with high water content if the wrap is going to sit around for obvious reasons, but otherwise, anything works.  Cut into spears for maximum efficiency when eating. 

Some favorite combinations: 
rice paper-sushi rice-finely chopped boiled egg, carrot sticks,gojuchang; 
collared green leaf-Tuscan white bean dip, chopped black olives, sun dried tomatoes, walnuts; 
nori-guacamole, brown rice, black beans, red onion, spinach




GRAIN and PASTA SALADS
A leafy salad with a couple of cherry tomatoes is not going to get you through much of the day, so you need to get a little heavier. These are awkward to eat while driving, but I have always gotten them through airport security, and it's perfect for picnics.

Grains: farro, barley, bulgar, quinoa, short-grain rices (long grain gets too dry)

Pastas: any shape works great, but go for something whole wheat, multi grain, or otherwise fortified for extra nutritional oomph.

Veggies: consider roasting a big pan of mixed veg to toss into salads or eat as sides throughout the week.  They'll really keep things form getting boring. Then when you mix in some fresh chopped vegetables, you've got a lot more variety in textures and flavors going on.

Fresh Herbs: Seriously.  If you have any growing in your window or garden (or the neighbor's garden, which you harvest at 2am--I'm not here to judge), chop and stir some of that stuff in here. It's going to be delicious.

Dressing: Any salad dressing you have already made (here are some ideas if you're stuck) will be great here, too. Don't make it complicated.

Some favorites: 
Farro with Vinegar-Glazed Sweet Potato and Apples
Barley Bowl with Miso Dressing
Tomato and Garbanzo Salad
Vietnamese Rice Noodle Salad
Quinoa and Roasted Vegetable Salad
Mediterranean Lentil Salad

01 July 2016

Ideas for simple summer getaways

I love the carefree, yet slightly homey feeling of a weekend spent in a small rental where I can hike, swim, explore a nearby city, and bring home local market delicacies to make simple meals for myself. Even driving down the road to a place you already like for a day trip can be a real treat when you don't have to rush yourself to cram all your activities into one day.  For instance, I live about 1:30 from Rocky Mountain National Park. We most often go for the day, leaving right after an early breakfast, fill the day with a long hike, and drive home for dinner.  But once in a while, we treat ourselves to a cheap hotel room in town with hot tubs on the premises (because: mountains) and then we can hike both days, enjoy the town at night, and just generally move at a more leisurely pace.  It's pretty cheap, and because we're not flying, we can toss all kinds of contraband in the car (beer, flamethrowers, large bottles of shampoo--the sky's the limit).  You could try:



A nearby city. See the art galleries you never quite make the time for, stroll along the antique district that's a little too far past your usual destinations,shop at a local specialized market, and actually have breakfast in that cool cafe you can never seem to get to before they close when you're driving from home. Fun cities to consider, if you don't have one nearby: Seattle, Denver, Portland, L.A., Boise (seriously!), Omaha, Nashville, Minneapolis, MadisonOklahoma City, Salt Lake City, Washington D.C. Best housing options: AirBnB, hostels. 


The beach. Do I need to say this? It's freakin' summer! What's better than rolling out of bed, spending the whole day at the beach broken up by snacks of fresh oysters and ice cream (not together), and then grilling dinner on your balcony while you watch the sun set?  Restaurants are not usually known for being fantastic in touristy beach towns, but amazing, cheap seafood is usually available at even the crappiest grocery store, so a kitchen really comes in handy in these settings. Areas to consider: Gulf Shores (Florabama), northern Michigan/northern Wisconsin, coasts of Oregon and Maine, Pismo Beach, San Diego. Best housing options: vacation rentals, state park cabins. 




A state or national park.  You can hike, fish, boat, or just lay around in the poison ivy all weekend.  These remote areas are also not known for their great eateries, nor are the groceries usually very cheap, so if you're driving, pack a cooler with groceries from home and some beer and get your money's worth out of that cabin kitchen! Parks to consider: Arches, Custer and Mt. Rushmore, Rocky Mountain, The Sinks...everyone has a park within a couple hours of home--go use it! Best housing options: vacation rentals, state park cabins. 



And while you're at it, if you're planning on cooking at all in your AirBnB/cabin/etc. kitchen, I love Food 52's oh-so-true list of things you need to bring with you.  Because rental kitchens are very poorly equipped, no lie. But I would make a couple of swaps:


  • Definitely pack your cutting board.  That is not an option, and you always have room.
  • Under "spices you use most", don't forget plain old salt and pepper.  There may not be any. 
  • A cast iron pan? Puh-leeze. Bring a deep-ish, large aluminum frying pan (oven-proof is even better) that can boil some pasta or rice and also be used to cook what goes on top. I mean, that could be cast iron, but that shit is soooo heavy.
  • If you think you're going to bake, a pie plate will work for quiches, pies, cobblers, casseroles, and more.
  • Make that vinegar rice vinegar (seasoned or not), and it'll go with everything.
  • A cork screw is not an option. It is a necessity. 

08 March 2016

Spring Road Trips: Utah

Bryce Canyon NP


My husband and I both teach, and so, as grown adults, we are still able to enjoy that magical invention known as "spring break".  When I was growing up in the Great Lakes region, that title was often a cruel joke, and I recall more than one college-era spring break spent snowed in at my apartment  watching movies on PBS and eating chocolate chips right out of the bag because I had given up on life.

Thanks to global warming, and also moving out West where life is so much easier, I can hit the road and enjoy a multitude of scenery and climates.  I'm focusing on Western states here because they truly are road trips for me, but it's not terribly expensive to fly out and rent a car for a few days if you want to join along in the fun.  Remember to  book on Tuesdays or Wednesdays for the cheapest flights. And whether you're flying or driving, review some of my very basic tips here for making it as fun as possible.

You don't have to be a Mormon to love Utah. Obviously, you'll fly in to SLC if you're too far to drive. Or if you're driving, SLC is still a terrific little city to visit, and it will definitely be your best chance at eating and drinking well. I have extolled its virtues before, and I still think it's a good place to visit. Check out Gastronomic Salt Lake City for more restaurant reviews, if you're into that sort of thing. Honestly, the rest of the time I just like to hang out in the downtown area and marvel at its utter weirdness (and of course, its progressive public transportation system). Then, get out of town...

Did you know how many stunning national parks there are in Utah? And every single one of them is, like, the most insane, Mars-looking place you've ever seen.  And you can't stop taking pictures, which turn out to be useless because they cannot capture the pure amazingness that is Utah. Here's a short write-up of the big ones, but I really cannot do any better than National Geographic's guide, handily published for free right here.
(stolen from National Geographic)


Capitol Reef National Park

Although less popular than some of the other Utah parks, Capitol Reef National Park. has consistently fewer crowds, meaning you’ll get a far more intimate experience with nature than previously afforded.

Two miles east of the visitor center is the park’s most popular hike, the Hickman Natural Bridge. One of the best hikes in the state, the natural bridge traverses 133 feet over a small stream. From the trail, you’ll be able to view one of the white sandstone domes that lends the park its namesake.

After exploring the rocky terrain all day, take the scenic byway to the small Mormon town of Fruita. Venture into the orchards, and spend the afternoon picking fresh fruits. For a small donation, you can take some of your harvest on the road to fuel your next adventures.

Arches National Park

Known internationally for the dramatic Delicate Arch, Arches National Park will have you spinning in circles while thinking, “Huh, I’ve seen pictures of that before.” Arches boasts over 2,000 naturally-formed arches, forming red monolithic bridges and awe-inspiring windows in the rock.

Some hire a guide to help you navigate through the labyrinth of spires and hoodoos that comprises the Fiery Furnace. This hike, named for both the heat the canyon retains and the bright red color of the walls and pillars, leads you through narrow passages of swirling and towering rock.

For family groups, the easy 1-mile Arches Window Primitive Loop will take you to see the north and south window arches that serve to frame the outlying scenery.

Zion National Park

A short 2.5 hour drive from Las Vegas is Utah’s most popular park, Zion.

Experienced hikers will want to experience Zion’s most popular trail, the Narrows. The hike will take you between the 1,000 foot cliff sides and into the shallow waters of the Virgin River below. Yes, you will get wet. But spring means the waters will be warmer than they will be the rest of the year. For those not willing to get wet, you can also view the Narrows from the wheelchair accessible Riverside Walk. Emerald Pools is a fun 3-mile hike, perfect for families with kids.

If hiking isn’t your thing, you can appreciate Zion’s natural beauty from the Zion Park Scenic Byway. You might even spot some of the local wildlife like the Peregrine falcon or bald eagle that call Zion home. More advanced adventurers can take on the sheer rock walls with rock climbing. And many canyoneering outlets in the area can take you rapelling, bouldering and exploring.


Bryce Canyon National Park

From Zion, it’s a 2 hour drive to your next destination, Bryce Canyon. Made popular by its brilliant colors and awe-inspiring “hoodoos,” Bryce will prove to be a treat to hikers and campers, alike.

Although many of the popular hikes will require investing a few days, Bryce’s trail system often intersects, meaning you can combine trails to make your hike as long or as strenuous as you like. Their shuttle service will actually pick you up and drop you off at the trailheads, meaning there’s no need to retrace your steps.

Due to Bryce Canyon’s high elevation, amateur astronomers will want to camp out at one of the two campsites and stargaze. The park’s stargazing programs provide telescopes that allow you to see thousands of stars in the night sky, the Milky Way reaching across the sky, and on moonless nights, even Venus and Jupiter.

Canyonlands National Park

Just 45 minutes outside of Arches, and the largest National Park in Utah,Canyonlands offers something for every kind of adventurer.

Two rivers divide the massive park into three distinct districts: Needles, The Maze and Island in the Sky. The Needles District, named for its abundance of pinnacles and spires, provides the most trails for day hikers and enough variety to suit any skill level. The Maze, a labyrinth of rock and stone, is only properly suited to experienced travelers who can take care of themselves out in the wilderness. This area is more remote than any of the aforementioned hiking spots.

You’ll probably want to start in the most popular district, Island in the Sky. The mesa protrudes 1,000 feet up out of the deep canyons, providing stunning and ethereal views of the surrounding desert, red rocks, and flowing Colorado River. Want to skip the hiking? Take to the road and drive the 20 miles of scenic roadway. Early mornings and late afternoons will provide you with complimentary warm sunlight to capture photographs with the best light you can't buy.

Darling SLC in the summertime.








26 February 2016

Washington D.C. Hearts Public Transportation

After a 28 year hiatus, I have weirdly found myself travelling to our nation's capital twice in the past six months. To be fair, that 8th grade class trip really wiped me out. The Smithsonian is so big.

I barely knew anything about the place before, except that Washington D.C. is filled with trinkets and expensive monuments meant to make me proud to be an American (and something about terrible public schools and mayors who do drugs), but I'll tell you what I have really come to appreciate: the public transportation system. The WMATA seriously kills it, and clearly other proud Americans think so, too. That's why you can easily find this handy guide to staying at hotels near train stations (and you can fast forward to the map to compare to your hotels.com searches if you're saving up those free room points). In fact, you can easily visit all the patriotic stuff (I joke, it really is some breathtaking stuff) on the Metro, tour many of the area's colleges (which is how I was able to string together a whole recital tour without ever renting a car), and plan your meals based on Metro stops.

If you are planning a trip to D.C., I implore you to take advantage of all of the amazing public transportation available to you. It's convenient, easy, and driving in that town is totally stressful if you're not familiar with the crazy street system. In my off hours during my last visit, I jumped on and off trains and tried to cram in as much national culture as I could.







Triple B Fresh, a Korean deli in DuPont Circle


















Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden, L'Enfant Plaza



















Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, Foggy Bottom Station


























Clyde's of Gallery Place




















Nando's Peri-Peri in Chinatown

22 January 2016

Winter destinations for people who love winter



When you search for "winter vacations" and its variations online, you tend to end up with listings for Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, and the like.  But what about those of us who don't want to escape the beautiful twinkling snow, crisp, refreshing air, and breathtaking silence you find in nature during the winter? Don't we sweat and look at scantily clad people enough in the summer months? If you are looking for a getaway meant to celebrate winter, but perhaps without so many of the crowds and dollar signs you'll see in the usual spots (Jackson, Aspen...), consider....

Big Sky, Montana

Big Sky is located in Gallatin County, just one hour from Bozeman, Montana to the north, and one hour from Yellowstone National Park to the south. It's small, but is nevertheless home to award-winning restaurants and is a veritable sportsman's paradise.

Durango, Colorado

I could have picked a lot of places (I was veering towards Ouray, honestly), but Durango is a nice compromise between remote and plentiful. As one of the four corners, you can easily pop into New Mexico, Utah, and Arizona to round out your Facebook states map, or whatever you call that stupid thing.  It's an actual town with a college, so you can find good places to eat and get a decent coffee. And you're surrounded by trails with beautiful views.

Hood River County, Oregon

Hood River is a small town hear a great city. Located in the heart of the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area between Mt. Hood and the Columbia River, it is only an hour east of Portland. It is beloved for its recreation opportunities (particularly windsurfing, kiteboarding, cycling and mountain biking, hiking and skiing), but it's also home to four breweries, a growing wine industry and a thriving food scene.

Park City, Utah

This might be the most populist choice on the list, but I love Park City.  I also adore nearby Salt Lake City, and you can easily enjoy both in one trip. Like the rest of these towns, there are good restaurants and lots of options for outdoor recreation, and as a bonus, there's a little film festival in January that sort of takes over the town, while still managing to have a down-home feel.

Royal Gorge Resort, Soda Springs, California

This place is like heaven for cross country skiers. Located right off of I-80 in Tahoe National Forest, it is a self-contained haven with great trails, accommodations, and food. If you want to keep it simple and just park yourself in one spot for a weekend without all the tourists from the tri-state area in front of you, this is the place.


15 January 2016

Favorite snowshoeing spots in the Rockies!



Snowshoeing doesn't get its due--it's a great form of exercise, allows you to go off trail in deep snow when you would otherwise miss out on all kinds of views, and there is virtually no risk of breaking bones or tearing ligaments, unlike skiing.  It's not sexy like those downhill chases in James Bond movies, but I'm not sexy, anyway. Are you sold yet?  Here are some perfect spots to try out your new favorite non-sport:

Colorado


Durango: Colorado Trail

Estes Park: Rocky Mountain National Park (try Bear Lake & Hidden Valley)

Evergreen: Echo Lake at Mt. Evans

Glenwood Springs: Hanging Lake Trail

Golden/Black Hawk: Golden Gate Canyon State Park

Steamboat Springs: Rabbit Ears Pass

Montana


Bozeman: Bohart Ranch

Helena: MacDonald Pass

Missoula: Lookout Pass, Pattee Cannyon, Rattlesnake National Recreation Area, Seeley Creek

Red Lodge: Lake Fork trails, West Fork Road

West Yellowstone: Yellowstone Pass

Whitefish: Whitefish Trail, Round Meadows, Glacier National Park

South Dakota


Black Hills: Iron Creek in Spearfish Canyon, Roughlock Trail at Savoy Lodge, Eagle Cliff Trails, Big Hill Trails, Mickelson Trail, and Old Baldy

Wyoming


Casper: Casper Mountain Nordic Center

Jackson: Teton Pass, Grand Teton National Park

Laramie: Happy Jack / Vedauwoo trails

Saratoga: Brush Creek Visitor's Center and trailhead

Sheridan: Sibley Lake and Cutler Hill


07 December 2015

'Tis the season...how to hate the airport a little less (hopefully)

Most of my travel in any given year is to go somewhere and perform a show, maybe give a master class, maybe give a talk on music entrepreneurship.  This kind of travel is OK; I end up in the airport during the week, generally between the hours of 9am and 4pm, and most of the people waiting to go through security with me are individual business travelers.  Now, they can be pretty tedious, always shouting into their phones and jerking out their arms to sigh at their wristwatches, but they do know the drill, and that makes everything flow a lot smoother for everybody.  There is also the fact that you simply have numbers on your side; there are no large families and no national guilt trips driving everyone to the airport at the same time to eat the same overcooked turkey, if you get my drift.  Denver International Airport, my home base, is quite large and often very busy, but it's a pretty serene place on a Thursday at 2pm.

When I do travel for the holidays, it is like being swung around rapidly by a total stranger and then punched in the face. Hard.  It doesn't matter how slick I think I am at the airport, it is a completely different place the day before Thanksgiving. It is an ugly place.  People who travel so infrequently that they are mesmerized and confused by all the directions at security and small children who can't carry anything or even take off their own shoes are particularly hard to be behind in line, but that's about all I ever see this time of year. Everyone at the airport hates being alive in the days leading up to and immediately following a major family-oriented holiday, from security to the gate clerks.  Here's how I try to cope (and I beg of you, fair readers, if you have any other tips, please share them in the comment section below.  There is no such thing as too many coping techniques this time of year.):

GETTING WHAT YOU WANT. There is no guarantee that you will get anything you want this holiday season, but I can guarantee you will be treated like a criminal if you show an attitude.  Repeat the mantra "I'm so lucky this isn't my job" over and over in your head while you are dealing respectfully (and pityingly) with harried airport personnel, and try a little play acting by adopting the "Kindly Brontosaurus" posture. (I've been using this a lot, and it really works, even if it looks silly.) Above all, DO NOT act like a head case who's about to throw a temper tantrum.  You will be seen as a violent enemy of the state. 



DISTRACT YOURSELF. You're stuck waiting in a crowded, noisy, uncomfortable seating area near your gate.  People who sound like they are literally swallowing the microphone scream what sounds like pertinent information, but you really have no idea how to decipher it.  Everyone who has ever procreated in the last six months anywhere in your state is taking the same plane as you, and they all think the aisle between rows of seats is a reasonable place to change a diaper.  What can you do? 

  • PLAY WITH YOUR PHONE. I'm an android person, so pardon my non-Apple-centric advice here.  If you can tap into free WiFi at your airport, you can watch YouTube for free, or Hulu, Netflix, Amazon or Google Play movies for a fee.  Podcast apps abound (I like Podcast Addict and NPR Podcast), and so do news apps, which help you avoid the constant CNN running everywhere overhead (try Ted Conferences to get sucked into something inspiring on a long wait, Slate for a little junk food while you're waiting to board the plane.) And of course, don't forget to load some appropriate music before you leave the house. 

  • EAT, DRINK, AND BE MERRY. Airports are not known for their great prices and competitive dining, but they're trying to do better.  And honestly, your aunt's Christmas meal is still going to be worse, and your grandparents don't have a liquor cabinet.  I blogged a while ago about some honestly good places to drop your money in some of my frequented airports; share some of your own in the comments section below! 

  • GET SOME REST/EXERCISE. Those prayer rooms tucked away in major airports don't get used all that often.  Be respectful, but if the place is deserted, this is a great opportunity to do some stretches, yoga, breathing exercises, or even some jumping jacks and push-ups to avoid atrophying while you wait. Stretching before wedging yourself into your airport seat makes the recovery time on the other side of your trip much shorter.  (Pro tip: I've practiced my flute in these spaces before when in dire need.  Just keep an eagle eye on anyone else entering the space to actually use it the way it was intended.) Many airports are even adding yoga rooms so you don't have to risk offending the truly pious! 
When I travel to see family, I like to treat myself for behaving once I get there.  In Chicagoland, it might be a stop at White Castle (which we don't have out West) or a request for Brown's Chicken for dinner that night, because while this is total and utter junk food, it reminds me fondly of my childhood. Judge if you must.  If we go down South to see my in-laws, I would like very much to arrange a trip for crawdads and oysters. Generally family are happy to oblige, especially when you are stingy with your visits. It's not the same as sitting in my own living room enjoying a glass of wine in my pajamas, but it's still an improvement over the airport.  

Happy holiday season!

04 December 2015

24 Hours in San Diego



Well, I was there for slightly more than 24 hours, but I was also being very lazy part of the time, so I probably only did 24 hours' worth of stuff. It was an OK time.



Donut Bar: They're all yeast-based donuts (like Krispy Kremes), but they do come in a lot of pretty variations of frosting decoration.



Balboa Park: If I lived in SD, I would go here every week.  There are so many museums (not huge, but nicely curated), walking trails, and just great places to sit and gawk.  I loved walking in the desert and rose gardens, and the art museum and botanical building were pleasant. The mind-blowing tree pictured above was in the desert garden, which was like walking around in a Doctor Seuss book. Don't waste the $5 on the Art Institute; try another campus around town instead. I would go back and walk down in the palm canyon if I could, especially on a hot day. The park was originally built for the 1915 World's Fair, and buildings are lovingly recreated from the original Spanish Renaissance style that formed the theme of the exhibition.



Little Italy I went here after dark, had delicious beer at Acoustic Ales (see above photo), and ate amazingly prepared, fresh seafood at Blue Water Seafood and Market, which is basically a fish market with casual seating where you go up to the counter to order meals. I had (environmentally irresponsible) swordfish in their "platter" configuration, which included a big, diverse salad with homemade dressing and jasmine rice alongside a very generous portion of grilled fish with your marinade of choice. It was heaven. These places were both a short walk from the Washington Street Station off the Trolley (which is actually light rail) green line.



Hillcrest Neighborhood: If you take the 120 bus to Balboa Park, you'll get off at 4th & Laurel in the Hillcrest neighborhood, and then walk a couple of blocks East to the park. Cucina Urbana offers a fresh, Cali-twist on Italian food and a great, local-centric wine bar. At happy hour, there are some great dips (I loved the cannellini bean hummus with smoked tomato), cheeses, and charcuterie on offer.  Artisan Bento across the street is basically a Japanese deli, with simple, fresh sushi options, soups, rice bowls,bento boxes, and salads behind the counter, and some great happy hour deals on all wines and sake. The seaweed salad was ridiculously good.


17 November 2015

Countdown to Thanksgiving: leaving town

Bitch, please.  Those are the crappy biscuits you dropped on the ground. 


I love Thanksgiving.  It's based on food with no requisite gift-giving tradition, it takes place in the fall (the best time of year), and it's not religious. It is based on a myth that our European ancestors were respectful to the indigenous population, but I think that's a lie we can all get behind here in America. So, let the celebration begin!

Maybe you will host a fatty Thanksgiving party at your abode, which is what the rest of these posts will detail. But if you're planning on traveling for the holiday like me, you're probably starting to slowly gather items, apps, and the like to make the car or plane ride comfortable.

If by air...

Did you know that you can download hundreds of free magazines and newspapers to read on your phone or tablet once you get to the airport?  Download the free Inflight Reader app and you'll have tons of reading to help ignore that annoying kid who keeps turning around and staring at you from his seat.

Did you also know that when you're in the airport, you can "?.jpg" to the end of any url to bypass having to pay for WiFi?

I love this infographic, "Should I Pack It?" Of course, if I'm flying to my parents' house, I pack absolutely nothing beyond underwear and a toothbrush.  I will wear my Mom's oversized sweaters and puffy floor-length winter coat all week, no problem.




If by land...

I know I've told you this before, and if you haven't already done it I'm going to be kind of pissed.  Download the Gas Buddy app to search for the cheapest gas wherever you are.

Keep a winter travel kit in your car if you live in a part of the country where winter happens: space blanket, sleeping bag, candles & matches, an extra coat, mittens, hat, and scarf, extra socks, emergency flares, and everything you need to jump start your battery & change a flat.

Pack snacks so you're not stuck eating Doritos at the gas station: nuts, chocolate, fruit, yogurt, plenty of water, and those Emergen'C packets make pretty tasty Kool-Aid. Make sure you've got napkins or facial tissue and some plastic silverware, too.  I don't know why, but I always need a spoon when I don't have one.

Check and see if you have these apps for your trip!





Being the best guest you can be...

Bring gifts--that's what this section is about. You are causing a great deal of work to take place on your behalf, from forcing your host to vacuum (suck) to washing all your soiled bed clothes and towels after you're gone (gross).  The least you can do is say thank you with some junk.

You can always buy something if you're flying--I totally trust the Serious Eats list on buying tasty, affordable Scotch, and Food and Wine definitely has their stuff together when it comes to recommending cheap wine you won't be embarrassed to bring to the party. Flowers are nice, and I'm not much of a smelly candle person, but I always love a good (small, inexpensive) little kitchen gadget. Or revisit my "Gifts fit for a food lover" post from last year.

If you're close enough that you can make something to bring over, consider infusing your own vodka, creating your own tea blend (a decent loose black tea pairs well with lavender, vanilla bean, and any number of dried fruits, for instance), a mulled wine packet (dried orange slices, cinnamon stick, cardamom pods, star anise), or homemade herbal vinegar (gently heat white wine vinegar for about 5 minutes with the herb or fruit peel of your choice, strain, and pour into an airtight container).  Any kind of baked good is also fair game, of course.

Happy travels, and don't be a jerk!

23 October 2015

The Great American Bar

Actually, I don't even know what that means.  I hate coming up with titles for these posts.  In a country this vast, "Great American" anything varies widely.  In the Northern Great Lakes, it would have to include some table shuffleboard and a Friday night fish fry; in Chicago and Boston, it's Irish. I suppose in California, wheatgrass is probably involved somehow.  But out here in the Rocky Mountains, I love a good Western bar, complete with taxidermied animals on the walls and some grand old pile of wood imported from a nearby ghost town's old general store. Maybe it would also have a little something special, like bar stools with pistols for arms (see Saratoga, below).

I spend a lot of time driving around Wyoming, and I never tire of these local gems, which often also serve some great local beer on tap and occasionally even know how to make a good Manhattan. In many of these towns, it's easier to find a good bar than it is a good restaurant, and I suppose the right amount of gin is just as filling as a small sandwich, albeit slightly harder on your liver.

If you're ever out this way, here are my suggestions; they also correspond to the towns I like to visit (with a couple of exceptions):

Casper: The Wonder Bar has pretty terrible food, but a terrific set of taps, including their own local brew and highlights from some of the best beers around the state. Be forewarned, local Casper College students swarm this place on the weekends, and I've been there more than once on St. Patrick's Day when I was just bypassed for a pat-down by the local cops patrolling the front door. If you're looking for a quiet drink with friends, maybe try a Wednesday night.

The Wonder Bar, home of Wyoming State Brewing, Casper

Cody: Buffalo Bill's Irma Hotel (Restaurant and Saloon) has that classic, grandiose wooden bar polished to a high gleam, and a decent selection of Western beers and whiskeys. It's pretty quiet in here most of the time, and you'll definitely hear some old geezers talking about hunting season.

Buffalo Bill's Restaurant and Saloon, Cody


Jackson: Million Dollar Cowboy Bar downtown hosts a lot of dead animals on the wall, and plenty of Country-Western dancing on the weekends. If that's too much for you (as it is for me), try the Silver Dollar Bar in the Wort Hotel. It's got more of a luxe, gold-rush feel to it, and the cocktails are great.

Silver Dollar Bar in the Wort Hotel, Jackson
Jelm: The Bar & Dance Hall at Woods Landing Resort is a great place to watch swing dancers do their thing on the historically registered dance floor at night, though I'd stick to the beer if you stop for a drink. Still, it's a truly Western, small=town experience, as is all of Jelm. Come to think of it, this resort IS all of Jelm...

Woods Landing in the thriving metropolis of Jelm
Laramie: As the token liberal college town in the state, Front Street Tavern opted to go without the soul-crushing, dead stares of elk on the walls, but it does have a certain warm, inviting vibe thanks to the elaborate salvaged bar from nearby Fort Laramie. The taps highlight Wyoming and Colorado beers, and the cocktails are generally very well-made.  As a bonus, they're adjoined to (and run by) Sweet Melissa's vegetarian cafe, and until about 9pm you can order food from their delicious menu and have it brought over. This place is not for the faint of heart on the weekends, though--bring earplugs and be prepared to wait ages for a seat.

Front Street Tavern, Laramie


Riverton: Not a place I would normally visit unless for business, but Bar 10 is actually great. Despite the blaring country-western and troubled 20-somethings screaming about guns and (pro) Tea Party sentiments, I had a delicious Manhattan with what had to be home-infused cherries.  The aesthetic is a mix of hunting saloon (wood panel, dead critters) and 1930s oil boom with rich-colored stained glass and bronze fixtures.  As a bonus, this is also probably the best restaurant in town.

Bar 10, complete with flaming stained glass, Riverton
Saratoga: Snowy Mountain Pub and Brewery is located in the Saratoga Resort and Spa (the one with the teepees over the hot tubs--so adorable!). The bar is dark, covered in wood, and filled with animal trophies (so is the local grocery store, by the way), and the beer is really fantastic.  I have loved everything I've tried. Go here, but skip the restaurant--it is also very Western, and it's awful if you're under 90. (Pro tip: if you are over 90, you can leave your dentures at home and still slide that meal into your gullet.)

Saratoga Brewery--notice the pistols for arms on the stools!

On a personal note, I have been to a number of these bars with my most stalwart travelling friends, Verismo Trio.  There's no one I like exploring Wyoming with more.  They're probably not reading this post because they're too frickin' important, though.

VT at Bar 10 this week.
Scott: "Are you going to blog about this?" Me: "Probably not."