Summer drinkin', part 3: the under-appreciated rosé

People often scoff at the girly-pink rosés that get passed around at weddings, and it's true, they can be cloyingly sweet and headache-inducing cheap.  But I rather like them in the summer, and there's a lot more variety than you might expect, if you only know what to buy.  Let's start a movement to give these refreshing wines the love they deserve.  I'm starting this morning.  

Prices listed are based on the going rates in Northern Colorado and southern Wyoming, by the way.  Sorry, East Coasters!

2010 Santi Infinito Rosé, approx. $8
Fruity and mild, great with grilled and/ or fruit-flavored poultry.

2011 El Coto Rioja Rosé, approx. $9
A slightly heavier, more floral wine with an orange undertone, it can stand up to BBQ chicken, flank steak, and pork.

2011 Le Rosé de Mouton Cadet Bordeaux Rosé, approx. $10
Floral and berry-like, this works well with fried shrimp, oysters, or calamari.

2011 M. Chapoutier Côtes-du-Rhône Rosé Belleruche, approx. $11
Paler in hue, and subtler in flavor, this wine stands in wherever you might serve pinot grigio. Try it with spicy Indian or Thai food.

NV Poema Brut Rosé Cava, approx. $11
On the dry side and with plenty of bubbles; great for a toast or an aperitif.

2011 Tariquet Rosé de Pressée, approx. $12
Sweeter and slightly thicker than the others, this works well with egg dishes or light seafood.

2011 Domaine de Fontsainte Gris de Gris, approx. $12
Herbaceous and rich, this also works well with spicy ethnic food.

2011 Château Bonnet Bordeaux Rosé, approx. $12
Delicate with peach undertones, this actually pairs quite well with tomato, as in a simple bruschetta appetizer.

2011 Mas Cal Demoura Qu'es Aquo, approx. $16
Crisp and full of berry flavor, this works exceptionally well with a burger.

NV Ewald Gruber Punkt Genau Zweigelt Rosé, approx. $18
Slightly fewer bubbles than Poema Brut Rosé Cava listed above, but still a great stand-in for champagne if you want a softer edge.

2011 Parajaxx Napa Valley Rosé, approx. $20
This is really a medium-red in disguise, and only slightly fruitier than a Merlot. Pair it with duck or beef.

Summer drinkin', part 2: guide to wines

Back when I wrote part-time for the abysmal Examiner.com, I was often scrounging for topical articles to get through the summer months between festivals and gardening tips.  I wrote this little guide to summer wines that got quite a few hits, and hope it can still be of some use.  At least, it could be an excuse to crank up the grill and get a bottle or two this weekend...

German Riesling: Classic Midwestern picnic wine, these run the gamut from sweet and fruity to dry and minerally. They're also incredibly food-friendly (the sweeter varieties work well with spicy foods like Thai and Indian). Guntrum Riesling Royal Blue is a great dry variety; Schloss Vollrads Reisling QBA, Rheingau is sweeter without being cloying.

Vinho Verde: This light, airy, and half-sparkling Portuguese wine is one of my favorites as an everyday substitute for champagne (and no headaches later). Terrific with salads and seafood, the crisp, green-apple flavor is not too sweet, not too dry. Try Sogrape Vinhos Gazela, which has a tinge of lime in it, or Broadbent Vinho Verde with its subtle apricot hues.

Gamay: Thought I was only going to mention whites for summer? Burgundy's other red, Gamay, is a lighter cousin to those thick, velvety reds that work so well around Christmas time. Lightly acidic with berry notes, serve this slightly chilled at picnics with everything from salami and hotdogs to salads and grilled chicken. Try Georges Deboeuf Morgon Jean Descombes, Cru Beaujolais, France, which is the definitive Gamay available in the states. Maison Louis Jadot Beaujolias Villages is another option available locally; I like it for its bright currant flavor and peppery finish.

Syrah: Long equated with budget Australian labels (which is a nice quality, I think!), Syrahs can work with heavy, wintery foods and light, grilled foods equally well. This is the red to serve with your grilled pork, lamb, or beef. For the lighter side of Syrahs, try Bonny Doon Le Pousseur orArnot-Roberts Clary Ranch, both from California. They have a gentler finish than the Australian varieties often do.

Caponata: the perfect patio snack

Caponata, a Sicilian dish of eggplants, sometimes fish, and other vegetables, is already pretty worldly; thanks to their geographical location along an important ancient trade route, many Sicilian dishes display similar influences from Greece, Spain, and the Middle East. My particular version is a slight departure from what I originally learned, but it certainly doesn’t depart from the basic flavor profile. I also roast the vegetables instead of frying in heavy oil, but you can do whatever you want.  I like to serve this at room temperature (not hot!) with crusty bread and chilled white wine, preferably bubbly.  

Global Caponata

Serves 6-8 as a snack for your Prosecco

1 ½ pounds eggplant, cut into 1-inch cubes

Salt

olive oil

1 small yellow onion, chopped

½ pound tomatoes, cut into 1-inch cubes

1/3 pound red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch squares

2 tablespoons fresh basil, chiffonaded

1 tablespoon fresh mint, chiffonaded

½ cup roughly chopped mixed olives

½ cup thinly sliced celery ribs

2 tablespoons capers

2 tablespoons sliced almonds

2 tablespoons raisins

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

1 tablespoon pomegranate seeds

Toasted bread for serving

Place chopped eggplant in a colander in the sink along with about 2 teaspoons salt.  Toss gently to cover eggplant and let stand 30 minutes.  Then, rinse eggplant under cold water and squeeze dry in handfuls.  

On parchment-lined baking sheets, spread the onion, celery, red bell pepper, basil, and mint. Top that with scattered chopped tomato and a pinch of salt.  Top tomatoes with the chopped eggplant and drizzle with olive oil.  Roast in an oven at 375°F for 20 minutes, or until eggplant is thoroughly cooked.  

Meanwhile, in a small microwaveable bowl, combine the vinegar, raisins, and sugar.  Heat 1 minute on high and whisk until sugar is completely dissolved. When vegetables are done, place in a large serving bowl and pour vinegar dressing on top; stir to coat.  Add the olives, capers, pomegranate seeds, and almonds and give it another stir.  Allow to cool to room temperature before serving.  This will also keep in the refrigerator up to one week; bring back up to room temperature before serving.  

A (boozy) chicken in the pot...

Comforting and creamy, this simple meal takes less than an hour to prepare.  The egg noodles are not necessary--rice, couscous, or whatever grain you prefer will work just as well.  In fact, salted steel cut oats are quite pleasant and hearty.

It's also a great way to use up leftover cream cheese when your short-lived love affair with bagels dies for the fifteen thousandth time. (Or is that just me?)

Chardonnay Chicken

Serves 4

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 large chicken breasts, cut into 2- inch chunks
2 shallots, diced
1 clove garlic, diced
8 oz. mixed mushrooms, washed and sliced
2 tablespoons sundried tomatoes, julienned
1 tablespoon capers
1 head broccoli, cut into bite-sized pieces (stem, too)
1/3 cup chardonnay (I like Mirassou, which is brighter and less buttery than most)
1 tablespoon grainy mustard
¼ cup cream cheese (low fat is fine)
1 teaspoon summer savory
Salt and black pepper to taste
1 pound egg noodles

Cook noodles in salted water according to package directions.

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium high heat.  Season the chicken with salt and pepper.  Cook the chicken pieces, flipping once, until lightly browned, about 6 minutes total. Reduce to medium heat and add the broccoli, shallots and garlic, stirring constantly until fragrant, about 2 minutes.  Add the mushrooms and sauté until they begin to give off their juices, about 5 minutes.  Add the chardonnay and grainy mustard, stir to combine into a broth, cover and lower heat to a simmer.  Cook on low until chicken is tender, about 10 minutes.  As you are draining noodles, stir in the cream cheese, summer savory and more slat and pepper, if desired.  Heat through, about 1 minute, and serve over pasta.