08 June 2018

36 hours in Prague

Prague was shockingly tourist-filled when I visited in May, but the beer was still dirt cheap, and the Medieval streets were still amazing.  It's a must-visit, for sure. Here's what I managed to do in my short time there:

STAY
Hotel ibis Praha Mala Strana
Plzeňská 14, Anděl, 150 00 Praha 5-Anděl-Smíchov, Czechia
 +420 221 701 700
Metro station: Anděl, serviced by busses, trams, and the Metro
It's just south of Malá Strana, also known as Lesser Town, is a hillside area with views across the Vltava river to the old town. Hotels, casual eateries and traditional pubs line its narrow streets, and visitors scribble messages to the late Beatle on the John Lennon Wall. The riverside Kampa area offers fine dining, and exhibits of photos and letters at the Franz Kafka Museum. Peacocks roam freely at Wallenstein Garden.Mala Strana developed at the foot of Prague's Castle Hill, a cluster of noble homes and palaces that formed one of the city's administrative units.

GETTING AROUND
As usual, Prague has public transportation figured out.  Read about it here. Bonus: the cute trams provide terrific views of the various neighborhoods in the city. 

VISIT
The two obvious landmarks of Wenceslas Square are at the southeast, uphill end: the 1885–1891 National Museum Building, designed by Czech architect Josef Schulz, and the statue of Wenceslas (currently closed for rennovations). The Square also hosts the Melantrich Building, No. 36, 1914, where Alexander Dubček and Václav Havel appeared together on its balcony in November 1989, a major event of the Velvet Revolution

Czech Museum of Music
Karmelitská 2/4,
118 00 Praha 1
Friday: 10.00-18.00
Saturday: 10.00-18.00

The exhibition titled "Crossroads of Czech and Czechoslovak Statehood" captures significant breaks in our history of the 20th century, when the statehood and ideological concept of the state changed significantly:
National Memorial at Vítkov
U Památníku 1900
130 00, Prague 3

Prague Castle
Prague 11908, Czech Republic (Hradcany & Letna)
+420 224 373 368

Petřínské skalky is an enormous park with a museum of ethnology, planetarium, art galleries, a national monument to the victims of communism, and so much more.  It puts Central Park in NYC to shame. Budget a couple hours to just get lost, and enjoy beautiful views from the top of Petrin Hill. 

EAT&DRINK
Lokál: One of the newer additions to the Ambiante Restaurant empire. This place serves up quality Czech food at reasonable prices. Address: Lokál, Dlouhá 33, Prague 1. (Good place for traditional dumplings)

Bredovsky Dvur: Just a block away from popular Wenceslas Square, but with a different feel from the high-traffic tourist areas. Try to go during lunch as there are inexpensive lunch menus and you’ll be enjoying your meal with locals on their lunch break. Address: Bredovsky Dvur, Politických vězňů 13 (parallel street to Wenceslas Square), Prague 1

Na Verandach: This restaurant is right at the Staropramen brewery, so you know the beer is fresh. Hearty food, too. Address: Na Verandach, Nadrazni 84, Prague 5 (Smichov)

Olympia: Nice Czech pub serving both Czech and continental specialties. Address: Olympia Kolkovna, Vítězná 7, Praha 1 (Ujezd)Suggested beer gardens: Letna Park Beer Garden(Prague 7) with views of the city or Riegrovy Sady(Prague 2) for a more grungy, local flavor.

Wine + cheese at Grebovka Vineyards: Grebovka park is in Prague 10. Closest tram stop is Krymska on 22, 16, or 4 tram lines. Finding your way here through the windy residential streets is part of the fun; this is not a touristy area at all. Go past the Grobovka Pavillion to get to Altan.

Upstair Cafes:
There’s the Grand Café Orient above the Cubist Museum, decorated in such detailed sympathy even the cakes come garnished with an oddly angled wafer. The fin de siècle Café Louvre, perched over an entirely forgettable modern rival, was a favourite with Kafka and Einstein, and serves a fabled hot chocolate you can stand a spoon up in.

REPEAT AFTER ME:
Mluvíš anglicky? / mloo-vish ang-gli-skee : "Do you speak English?" (Don't worry, they all do.)













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