Caprese pasta salad

Consider: it's too hot to cook, but you have all of these beautiful tomatoes available in your garden/farmer's market/grocery store and they actually have amazing flavor. This situation will be non-existent by October 1. This should of course be the excuse for a meal, right?

Toss equal parts chopped fresh tomato, chopped fresh mozarella, and short pasta shape. I used oricchiette here, and the cheese is from a container of fresh mozarella pearls.  Make sure everything is about the same size. 

Chop a generous amount of fresh basil into thin slices (chiffonade) and dress with a couple glugs of olive oil, half that amount of balsamic vinegar, and season with kosher salt and red pepper flakes. Optional stir-ins: crispy bacon, capers. Dinner is served!

PAIRS WITH:

dry rose, dry lambrusco

Good eats in Orlando (I promise)

I recently spent a week in Orlando, which is my idea of hell, no lie.  But until the National Flute Association develops some taste, I will forever be struggling to put a on happy face in smoldering temperatures, dripping humidity, and a whole lot of flute choir concerts at the national convention. You didn't really care about any of this, did you? You just want to know where to eat when you're stuck at Sea World / Disney World / Orlando Convention Center / Blech. I gotchyoo.

At The Point, a shopping funhouse with a bunch of cartoonishly large, overdecorated restaurants crammed together (**Happy hours at all these places are 3-6pm):

The Pub
http://experiencethepub.com/orlando/
Highlights: Naughty Chips (basically fully loaded poutine), curry chicken flatbread, Scotch egg, large beer menu

Taverna Opa
https://opaorlando.com/
Highlights: a really piney retsina by the glass, spanikopita, meatballs, great selection of small plates
Fun activity: After you order, hummus comes to the table as seasoned chick peas in a mortar and pestle for you to grind, and the pita bread is super fluffy and delish

Cuba Libre
http://www.cubalibrerestaurant.com/
Highlights: ropa vieja, arroz con pollo, visit to Havana (comes with a full-sized Cuban, plantain chips, black bean soup, and a mixed salad), malanga fritters
They win the happy hour award: 2-for-1 drinks from 3-6pm, and the caipirinha is fab.

Lafayette's
http://lafayettes.com/orlando/
Highlights: sweet corn & jalapeno hushpuppies, shrimp and grits, po boys, a great brunch menu daily


At Lake Cay Shopping Center, where you'll be buying your overpriced groceries at Publix if you're staying at one of the hundreds of tourist-approved condos, you'll find

@ The Diner
https://www.atthediner.com/
Highlights: Roast pork benny (eggs benedict with slow-cooked roast port instead of the Canadian bacon), loaded biscuits (cheese, bacon, and gravy), mimosas an entire stuffed French toast menu

Beth's Burger Barhttps://bethsburgerbar.business.site/
The create-your-own burgers really are good, because the basic burger is so tasty.  There's also a brunch menu that includes tasty burritos and chicken and waffles.

The world's simplest potato salad

I had this at one of my favorite NoCo restaurants, The Kitchen, in Fort Collins last month. It was served as a side to my super-porky, gluttonous Cuban sandwich, and it was sitting there all pale and goopy on my plate.  I thought, "what is this garbage, and when did they stop trying with the sides"?  But then I took a bite and realized it was actually pure evil genius: four ingredients, and it was somehow more amazing than the Cuban (which was also very good, so nice job again Kitchen people).


You can add more ingredients to this to make it a little heartier, or swap out the greens for a different flavor.  But I would caution you against making it too complicated, because then it loses some of its magic.




The Kitchen Potato Salad

Serves 6-8 (or me like, twice)

3 lbs. small red potatoes, cut into approx. 2-inch pieces if necessary
1 cup plain Greek yogurt
1 Tbsp. (or more) creamy horseradish
2 cups packed baby arugula
salt & pepper

Boil the potatoes for about 15 minutes or just until cooked through. Lay out cooked potatoes on a flat baking sheet, wait for them to stop steaming, then place the tray in the fridge to cool down at least a couple hours or preferably overnight.

Mix together Greek yogurt and horseradish in small bowl. Season with salt and pepper as needed. Stir this dressing into the cooled potatoes. Use as much or as little of the yogurt mix as you like. Add the arugula, and lightly turn to coat.

Additions/substitutions:

• Swap our arugula for cooked or raw kale, raw spinach, or just a giant hunk of roughly chopped fresh herbs. If you're going to herb route, I like dill and parsley for this.
• Add herbs, as stated above.
• Stir in fresh green peas, lightly steamed (you can add them to the potatoes in the last 60 seconds of cooking)
• Add cooked brown or French (puy) lentils

You got Mexican Corn in my Pasta!

I don't know when this whole "Mexican Street Corn" thing started, but it's delicious, so screw authenticity. Also, I love pasta. PS, you can eat this hot or cold.

Mexican Corn Pasta

Serves 6

For the Dressing:
1/4 cup plain Greek yogurt

1/2 cup mayonnaise
juice and zest of one lime
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon hot sauce (I use Tapatio)
salt and pepper, to taste

For the Pasta Salad:
8 oz. farfalle or rotini pasta

2 teaspoons olive oil
4 cups corn (frozen and thawed, fresh removed from cob, or canned and drained)

1/2 red bell pepper, chopped
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and diced finely
4 green onions, green parts only, thinly sliced
4 oz. crumbled goat cheese (or queso fresco, or a combo)
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus more for garnish


Mix all ingredients for dressing in a large bowl. Set aside.

Cook pasta according to directions in well-salted, boiling water. Drain and set aside.

Heat a skillet with the olive oil and add the corn kernels and peppers. Cook over medium-high heat until starting to brown- don’t stir too often. You should get nice dark color on some pieces.

Combine all ingredients together in a serving bowl. Stir to combine.

  

Kimchi noods with miso butter

This is a probiotic bomb, and it will leave you pleasantly full and satisfied for hours. Plus it's super tasty, fast, and you can eat it hot, cold, or at room temperature. 

Kimchi Noodles with Miso Butter

Serves 4

8 oz. stick pasta (anything--buccatini, angel hair, soba, etc. etc. Soba is pictured above.)
1 cup kimchi, drained
1 tablespoon miso butter
2 cups broccoli florets or packed baby spinach
toasted sesame seeds for garnish (optional)

In well-salted boiling water, cook the pasta to al dente.  In the last 2-3 minutes of cooking, add the broccoli (if using spinach, add in the last 60 seconds). Drain, stir in the miso butter until completely melted, then toss in the kimchi and sprinkle with sesame seeds if using.

Miso butter for almost everything

This is hardly a recipe, but it will up your game anytime you'd normally use butter.  By adding white (don't substitute another flavor) miso to your unsalted butter, you're adding an almost cheesy pop of umame that works with just about any cuisine. Just combine room-temperature butter and white miso in a 2:1 ratio (a small container of 4 tablespoons butter to 2 tablespoons miso will keep nicely in the fridge for last-minute additions) and mash it together with a fork until it looks pretty well mixed.

What can you do with it?

• Toss it into steamed vegetables with a little hot sauce for a side.
• Put it on your toast in the morning, immediately followed by some thinly sliced avocado and a perfect, 9-minute boiled egg.

• Add it to hot noodles as a quick sauce, before adding veggies and/or proteins.
• Slap a pat onto cooked fish or land animals as a finishing sauce.
• Use it in place of plain butter on corn on the cob or a baked potato. 

I will have all of the sangria, please

I am so done with rosé, and never really did get the appeal in the first place.  But sangria is definitely something I can wrap my brain around...a crisp white wine (go with something cheap), made more interesting with fresh fruit and maybe fortified with a little sweet liquor--what's not to love? 

"Orangey"
1/2 cup (1 to 2 oranges) freshly squeezed orange juice
1/2 cup (3 to 4 lemons) freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 cup Triple Sec
1 bottle (750 ml) dry white wine (anything but Chardonnay)
1 bottle (10 oz.) soda water
1 orange, sliced
1 lemon, sliced

"Grapefruity"

1 750 mL bottle riesling
1 750mL bottle prosecco
1 cup grapefruit juice
1/4 cup simple syrup (optional)
1/2 cup club soda
1 1/2 cups sliced strawberries
1 grapefruit, cut into chunks/slices

"Cucumber-Melon"

4 cups honeydew melon or canteloupe, cubed
1 cup sliced English cucumber
1 750ml Prosecco
1/2 cup white grape juice
1 cup fresh mint leaves

"Skinny"
1 bottles of crisp white wine (Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio...)

1 bottle of sparkling white wine (Vino Verde, Prosecco)
2 ripe peaches, sliced
1 pint raspberries
2 kiwis
several sprigs of mint
Stevia or other sugar substitute to taste

I often skip the additional sweeteners, but for something a bit more like soda pop, you may elect to keep them in.  Whichever recipe(s) you try, plan ahead so that it can sit in the fridge for about an hour before serving.  You can also substitute any amount of fresh fruit for frozen.

Weekend in Old Colorado City/Manitou Springs

Thanks to Air BnB, I had a pretty sweet couple of nights in a 1979 Airstream down in Old Colorado City recently. OCC, as I like to call it when I'm being lazy, was the original capital of Colorado. By the 1920s they were going broke and voted to incorporate into Colorado Springs, so what's left today is a cute selection of old-timey architecture filled with restaurants, pubs, and overpriced clothing. Manitou Springs, home to a bevy of amazing hikes, looks similar. They're both tucked into the Pike's Peak/Garden of the Gods mountainous area, providing a nice respite from your climbing and hiking adventures. Here are my recommendations:

Local grocery stores (OCC):
King Soopers, 1750 W. Uintah St
Safeway, 3275 W Colorado Ave

Restaurants:
PJ’s Diner, 915 Manitou Ave, Manitou Springs, CO 80829 (authentic Polish + burgers)
La Baguette, 2417 W Colorado Ave, Colorado Springs, CO 80904 (French bakery serving a full menu through 6pm)
Alchemy Irish Pub, 2625 W Colorado Ave, Colorado Springs, CO 80904
Paravicini’s, 2802 W Colorado Ave, Colorado Springs, CO 80904 ($9 lunch menu) 

Red Dog Coffee and Cafe, 739 Manitou Ave, Manitou Springs, CO 80829

In Town:
Old Colorado City wandering: along Colorado Ave.
Manitou Springs wandering: Manitou Ave & Canyon Ave

Outdoors:
Garden of the Gods: take either Pikes Peak Ave or Colorado Ave West to 30th St, North on 30th
Red Rock Canyon Open Space: Take US-24 W, turn left onto Ridge Rd, turn left onto W High St
Manitou Cliff Dwelings $ (open 9-6): same as above, but continue on US-24 until Turn right onto Cliff Rd/Sunshine Trail
Miramont Castle Museum $ (closed Mondays): same as above, but continue on US-24 until continue on Serpentine Dr. Take Manitou Ave to Capitol Hill Ave
Manitou Incline: US-24 to Continue on Serpentine Dr. Take Manitou Ave and Ruxton Ave to Hydro St (towards Cog Railway)
Manitou Heritage Museum: 517 Manitou Ave (11:30-4:30 daily)

If you think this Airstream looks like a cute place to bunk, I couldn't recommend it, and the host, more highly. Go here for more info.

Hot Chicken in the City

Nashville Hot Chicken, I'm told by the natives, is not a long-standing tradition.  But the term is now used as if it's been around forever, and let's face it, Southerners know how to fry up a good bird.  The "hot" is only an option, by the way--all of these places offer a mild version, so don't be scared if you don't feel like burning your lips off.

Like a good BBQ joint, a plate will offer you two sides, like mac & cheese (often done with pimento cheese), greens, corn on the cob, cole slaw, or baked beans. Here are a couple delish ones in the South, and one bonus joint in Colorado that definitely does it right, despite the lack of twang from the servers.

...special thanks to my Southern pals who helped me find the best places in Nashville!

Bolton's Spicy Chicken & Fish, 624 Main St and 2309-A Franklin Pike in Nashville, TN 

Features: Chicken on a Stick plate (trust me) makes you feel like you're at the county fair, and there's also a great selection of fried fish and pork, either in a platter or sandwich.  SO, it's basically a BBQ place that also does great fried chicken, which makes it a real crowd-pleaser for mixed groups. 

Best sides: white beans, corn on the cob, spaghetti (I mean, it's not the most amazing spaghetti you'll ever have, but-?!)

Hattie B’s, 29 Seven Apartments, 2808 7th Ave S #101 in Birmingham, AL; 596 Cooper Street in Memphis, TN; 5209 Charlotte Pike, 112 19th Ave S, and 2222 8th Ave S in Nashville

Features: Besides becoming pretty ubiquitous in a short amount of time, it's probably the most hipster place I visited (in newly gentrified Melrose, Nashville, anyway). There are some great local beers on tap, and the service is super fast and friendly. Shut the Click Up!! is their hottest chicken, and it's near-nuclear. And the banana pudding is just super Southern, if you're and outsider like me and looking to go all-out. 

Best sides: black eyed pea salad, red skin potato salad

And believe it or not:
Music City Hot Chicken, 111 West Prospect Road #C , Fort Collins, CO 

Features: Since they're just a couple shops down from Black Bottle, they have their own BB brew on tap (it's a light, summery lager called Music City Cold Beer, and it's perfect with spicy chicken). They also have some exotic flavors, like a green chili flavoring and also a Jamaican Jerk, which are both super tasty. Each chicken comes with a dipping sauce, as well, which I didn't see in Nashville.  I don't really get the point, but it's nice if you like that sort of thing...

Best sides: mac & cheese, waffles (get the Fireball syrup as your sauce)

The best cold brew coffee for the summer

If you've been paying over $10 for a tiny bottle of cold brew at the grocery store (or going out every day for it-?!), you need this recipe in your life. Making cold brew at home couldn't be any easier, and if you have a French press, straining it is a breeze, too.  Save your money for a great road trip and start making your fancy cold coffee drinks at home!

Cold Brew @ Home

Makes about 4 drinks

2/3 cup coarsely ground coffee
3 cups water
1 teaspoon cinnamon or cardamom, depending on your taste (I prefer cardamom)
3 tablespoons dark brown sugar

Put ingredients in a quart jar, stir, and cover with lid. OR, dump in your French press and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight.

In the morning, pour the coffee base through a sieve or strainer into a bowl, then strain back into jar for easy storage. If you've used a French press, just strain and dump it into a jar. This makes pretty strong coffee, but it's totally drinkable this way.  However, if you want to get all Starbucks-y, put a few ice cubes in a glass. Pour in coffee until glass is about 3/4 full, and add milk/half and half/cream to taste.

Alternative things to do in Vienna

If you haven't ever visited Vienna, I strongly encourage you to spend your time on the Ringstrasse and Museum Quarter, soaking up all the history and grandeur you can. I was completely mesmerized on my first trip to Vienna. I recommend purchasing the Vienna Card if you do. But it's an expensive place, and you don't really need to do it again if you have a memory of it that first time. There are some kooky corners to this seemingly stuffy city, as well as a whole lot of places to eat and drink off the beaten path. Here's a quick guide to what I liked:

STAY

Hotel Novum Prinz Eugen, Prinz Eugen-Straße 27,1030 Vienna  (across the street from from Hauptbanhoff (Central Station))

Located in neighborhood Wieden, just south of Vienna’s center. It's the home of the Vienna University of Technology. Restaurants sling fusion cuisine, second-hand shops sell everything from minimalist furniture to vintage suits, and the DJs spin hip-hop and Euro-disco. Night owls should check out Goodmann, a lively after-hours spot. The Belvedere is a few short blocks away (lots of Nazi-looted Klimts, free to walk the gardens).

GETTING AROUND

Public transportation is super easy to use, efficient, and all-encompassing. But did you know there are also a ton of bike paths, and biks only cost 1 Euro per hour to rent at all train stations? In fact, if you turn in your bike just before the hour, then wait 15 minutes before renting another one, you'll never even have to pay! 

VISIT

Take a walk or bike ride around the Ringstrasse, the ring road that runs around the centre of Vienna, past some of the city’s most famous buildings. Along the route you can see the Vienna State Opera, Imperial Palace, Parliament and City Hall. You can also take a free guided tour around the City Hall, or Rathaus, every Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 1pm (except on public holidays).

It’s also free to visit the city’s parks, like the Burggarten and Stadtpark. Entrance to the Schönbrunn Palacegardens is also free (though you have to pay a couple of euros to go into the maze or Gloriette viewing terrace). If you’re in the city during summer, you can escape the heat by heading down to the banks of the Danube. Danube Island has miles and miles of beaches as well as boat and bike hire, playgrounds and cafés.

Visit The Flederhaus, a giant house-shaped structure  filled with hammocks overlooking the city, in the Museum Quarter.

Hundertwasserhaus Kegelgasse 36-38, 1030 Wien, Austria
The Hundertwasserhaus in Vienna is a building designed by the artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser and located in the 3rd Viennese district. The extraordinary building was constructed between 1983 and 1985. It was architecturally realized with the collaboration of architect Josef Krawina as co-creator and the implementing architect Peter Pelikan. The result is known about around the world.

• Tip: In the "Kunst und Café" coffee house on the ground floor of the Hundertwasserhaus , a free film can be watched in which Friedensreich Hundertwasser leads viewers in person through "his" house.

Resistance Museum in the Dokumentationsarchiv des österreichischen Widerstandes recounts what little of an attempt Austria made to foil the Nazis, and it's free to get in.
Wipplingerstraße 6, 1010 Wien, Austria, 9-5
Take U1 to Stephensplatz

EAT & DRINK

The 400-year-old Naschmarkt is Vienna’s largest—a 2ish mile-long stretch filled with street-food vendors, and a great place to grab brunch. If you wander the market, make sure to take in the Otto Wagner-designed houses at 38 and 40 Linke Wienzeile. The market is open Monday through Saturday. The best subway station to stop is Kettenbrückengasse , on Line U4.

7 Stars Brewery Great beer and well-executed traditional Austrian/Bavarian food
SIEBENSTERNGASSE 19 | 1070 VIENNA | +43 1 523 86 97

Café Nil: a kind of Marrakesh decor coupled with a 1950s green tile design. Adorable retro stands next to the tables carry the sugar, salt & pepper. Nice servers. Lots of natural light. Free wifi. Siebensterngasse 39, 1070 Wien, Austria

Pakistani Buffet: 

DER WIENER DEEWAN

10 Liechtensteinstraße, 1090, Vienna, Austria
This is a total student hang-out with crowded, communal tables and a soup kitchen feel.  It's wonderful and fun, and you pay what you want (but there are suggested prices, which are super cheap).

Affordable ($-$$) Viennese food:
Kolar
Kleeblattgasse 5, Vienna 1010, Austria

Leberkas- Pepi
Operngasse 12, Vienna 1010, Austria


SPEAK

I was surprised to find that several cafes/restaurants had employees who really didn't speak English.  But you can get by with this and some pantomime:
Hallo: Hello (informal)
Bitte: Please
Bitteschön: You’re welcome
Dankeschön: Thank you
Danke: Thanks
Auf Wiedersehen: Goodbye (formal)
Tschüss: Bye (informal)
Ja: Yes
Nein: No
Entschuldigung: Excuse me / sorry
Kein problem: No problem
Guten Morgen: Good morning
Guten Abend: Good evening
Prost: Cheers
Ich heiße…: My name is….
Ich komme aus…: I come from…
Sprechen Sie Englisch? Do you speak English?
Wie viel Kostet das? How much does that cost?
Wo ist die Toilette? Where is the toilet?
Ich verstehe nicht: I don’t understand.
Ich möchte bezahlen: I would like the check, please.
Können Sie mir helfen? Can you help me?
Mein Deutsch ist schlect: My German is bad.


And some coffee drinks, so you have some clue of what to order:
Melange: The king of coffee, a mix of frothed milk and steamed coffee similar to the Italian cappuccino, but consumed at any time of the day.

Kleiner Brauner and Großer Brauner: Means "little brown one" or "large brown one" and comes close to what people consider to be ordinary coffee: black with a bit of milk, yet typically not filtered, but steamed like espresso.

Milchkaffee or Café latte: A large coffee with frothed milk, has been around for a long time, but recently gained popularity probably due to its fancy Italian name that sounds much cooler than "Milchkaffee".

Einspänner: Strong, black coffee typically served in a high glass with a dash of whipped cream.

Fiaker: Named after horse-and-carriages, the Fiaker is a rather not-so-common drink of coffee with a shot of Austrian rum and whipped cream.

Mazagran: A cold Fiaker-variation, coffee, ice, a shot of rum - and possibly a bit of sugar.

Schwarzer or Mokka: Strong, black coffee, normally consumed with a lot of sugar, but served without.

Kurzer or Espresso: The same coffee, in recent years the Austrian term "Kurzer" (meaning "short one") has almost gone extinct and these days, the international "Espresso" is to be found on the menus much more commonly.

Eiskaffee: Cold coffee with vanilla ice cream, chocolate and whipped cream - served typically in the summer months, but ideal for the hot season. Only ice tea is more refreshing.

36 hours in Prague

Prague was shockingly tourist-filled when I visited in May, but the beer was still dirt cheap, and the Medieval streets were still amazing.  It's a must-visit, for sure. Here's what I managed to do in my short time there:

STAY
Hotel ibis Praha Mala Strana
Plzeňská 14, Anděl, 150 00 Praha 5-Anděl-Smíchov, Czechia
 +420 221 701 700
Metro station: Anděl, serviced by busses, trams, and the Metro

It's just south of Malá Strana, also known as Lesser Town, is a hillside area with views across the Vltava river to the old town. Hotels, casual eateries and traditional pubs line its narrow streets, and visitors scribble messages to the late Beatle on the John Lennon Wall. The riverside Kampa area offers fine dining, and exhibits of photos and letters at the Franz Kafka Museum. Peacocks roam freely at Wallenstein Garden.Mala Strana developed at the foot of Prague's Castle Hill, a cluster of noble homes and palaces that formed one of the city's administrative units.

GETTING AROUND

As usual, Prague has public transportation figured out.  Read about it here. Bonus: the cute trams provide terrific views of the various neighborhoods in the city. 

VISIT
The two obvious landmarks of Wenceslas Square are at the southeast, uphill end: the 1885–1891 National Museum Building, designed by Czech architect Josef Schulz, and the statue of Wenceslas (currently closed for rennovations). The Square also hosts the Melantrich Building, No. 36, 1914, where Alexander Dubček and Václav Havel appeared together on its balcony in November 1989, a major event of the Velvet Revolution

Czech Museum of Music
Karmelitská 2/4,
118 00 Praha 1
Friday: 10.00-18.00
Saturday: 10.00-18.00

The exhibition titled "Crossroads of Czech and Czechoslovak Statehood" captures significant breaks in our history of the 20th century, when the statehood and ideological concept of the state changed significantly:
National Memorial at Vítkov
U Památníku 1900
130 00, Prague 3

Prague Castle
Prague 11908, Czech Republic (Hradcany & Letna)
+420 224 373 368

Petřínské skalky is an enormous park with a museum of ethnology, planetarium, art galleries, a national monument to the victims of communism, and so much more.  It puts Central Park in NYC to shame. Budget a couple hours to just get lost, and enjoy beautiful views from the top of Petrin Hill. 

EAT&DRINK
Lokál: One of the newer additions to the Ambiante Restaurant empire. This place serves up quality Czech food at reasonable prices. Address: Lokál, Dlouhá 33, Prague 1. (Good place for traditional dumplings)

Bredovsky Dvur: Just a block away from popular Wenceslas Square, but with a different feel from the high-traffic tourist areas. Try to go during lunch as there are inexpensive lunch menus and you’ll be enjoying your meal with locals on their lunch break. Address: Bredovsky Dvur, Politických vězňů 13 (parallel street to Wenceslas Square), Prague 1

Na Verandach: This restaurant is right at the Staropramen brewery, so you know the beer is fresh. Hearty food, too. Address: Na Verandach, Nadrazni 84, Prague 5 (Smichov)

Olympia: Nice Czech pub serving both Czech and continental specialties. Address: Olympia Kolkovna, Vítězná 7, Praha 1 (Ujezd)Suggested beer gardens: Letna Park Beer Garden(Prague 7) with views of the city or Riegrovy Sady(Prague 2) for a more grungy, local flavor.

Wine + cheese at Grebovka Vineyards: Grebovka park is in Prague 10. Closest tram stop is Krymska on 22, 16, or 4 tram lines. Finding your way here through the windy residential streets is part of the fun; this is not a touristy area at all. Go past the Grobovka Pavillion to get to Altan.

Upstair Cafes:
There’s the Grand Café Orient above the Cubist Museum, decorated in such detailed sympathy even the cakes come garnished with an oddly angled wafer. The fin de siècle Café Louvre, perched over an entirely forgettable modern rival, was a favourite with Kafka and Einstein, and serves a fabled hot chocolate you can stand a spoon up in.

REPEAT AFTER ME:

Mluvíš anglicky? / mloo-vish ang-gli-skee : "Do you speak English?" (Don't worry, they all do.)

36 hours in Budapest

...I think there's a NYTimes article of the same title from a few years ago, but here's the guide for those of you whose last names are not Rockefeller (and for those of you interested in mixing up the touristy stuff with a little local flavor). Bottom line: GO NOW, before it gets completely overrun with tourists (except for you, who are super awesome tourists who tread lightly, of course). Here's what I did/where I stayed:

STAYING
City Hotel Matyas
Budapest, Március 15. tér 8, 1056 Hungary
+36 1 338 4711

The rooms are charmingly dated but clean and all come with private bathrooms (formerly a luxury in Central Europe). The breakfast spread is fantastic, and the location, just across the Danube from Gellért Hill and near a major Metro line, is scenic, lively, and incredibly convenient.


GETTING AROUND
When you get in from the airport, there's an easy bus to catch that takes you into the heart of the city: Bus100EDeák Ferenc tér M (purchase tickets at BKK Customer Service at the Airport or vending). Cost was 900 HUF in May 2018.

As with all European cities, public transportation is cheap, efficient, and comprehensive. Here's an introductory guide to purchasing tickets and learning the system.

Tram 2 skirts the banks of the Danube on the Pest side and even passes the magnificent Parliament, while Bus 16, affectionately known as the “Castle Bus”, winds a route up to and through the charming neighborhood that surrounds Buda Castle.

But wait! You were getting the Hop On ticket so you could take the Danube boat as well? Don’t bother – there are public boats that ply the river during the summer and they cost just 1 Euro each way. And there’s a bar on board!

VISITING

If you're worried about missing the major stuff (or just mesmerized by all those bendy streets that don't line up), consider one of the city's free walking tours:

“Original” Starts daily at 10:30 a.m. & 2:30 p.m.
Meeting point: Vörösmarty square (at the lion fountain)
Length: 2.5-3 hours – covers about two and a half miles (~ 3.5 kilometers)
Downloadable tour sheet

“Jewish Quarter” Starts daily at 10:00AM & 3:30PM
Meeting point: Vörösmarty square (at the lion fountain)
Length: 2 – 2.5 hours – covers about one and a half mile (~ 2.5 kilometers)
Downloadable tour sheet

The most popular of the Budapest mineral baths is definitely Széchenyi, and it's crowded af. Gellért is Buda is a bit more chill, but still on the beaten path. Király Bath still lives in its original Ottoman dome, as does Veli Bej Bath, which has been beautifully renovated and has more of a luxurious feel. And, if you like the outdoors feel, Dandár Bath has a stunning courtyard pool to enjoy. Pro tip: bring your own towel and some flip flops. 

Not to be a downer, but you really should go to the House of Terror, which details the successive occupations of Hungary through time, but focusing primarly on the Nazo and Soviet occupations.  It is really well done, and always fascinating to see how a country tells its own history. 

Terror Museum
1062 Budapest, Andrássy út 60.
muzeum@terrorhaza.hu
+36 (1) 374 26 00
The House of Terror Museum is easily accessible by the Millennium underground (M1) or tram 4 / 6. It is a short walk from Vörösmarty utca underground station or Oktogon tram stop. Open every day except Monday: 10:00 am-6:00 pm.

Buda Castle & Fisherman’s Bastion: Explore pretty, quiet streets and catch the spectacular views of Pest from the top.

EAT&DRINK

Szimpla, the famous ruin pub, truly is worth visiting. And it hosts a popular farmers’ market every Sunday, with delicious offerings and live music. Karavan Street Food is also located in a small ally near Szimpla Kert this place is perfect for a quick, easy and tasty lunch. With several food carts serving up hot fresh and local food, there is something for everyone, including local beer! The area is decorated with lights and has benches so you can take a break and relax while you enjoy your food. Be sure to order the local flatbread with goat cheese and arugula. Margitutcakilenc is a ruin pub on the Buda side and serves excellent, locally sourced food at a great price.

(PS--All the guides say that you have to go to Gerbeau Café. It is very touristy, over-priced, and not the most spectacular of Budapest Cafés. Visit the Alexandra Bookstore Café or the New York Café instead.)

The Hungarian language is absolutely bananas and unrelated to everything except Finnish (Latin was also officially spoken into the 19th Century there), but don't worry, everyone speaks English.  Just memorize this on the plane: 

Szia. (SEE-å). Beszél angolul? (BE-seyl ÅN-go-loul?)

"Hello! Do you speak English!

 

Stuffed pasta shells for when you're feelin' fancy (and have some times on your hands)

Why is stuffed pasta so fun? Why is baked pasta always so amazing?  It's a pain in the posterior to make (only in time involved, not skill level), but sometimes you just have to pull on some sweatpants, cue up the Pandora Summer Hits of the 80s playlist, and throw together some

Nicole's Jumbo A-1 Stuffed Pasta Shells

Serves 6

12ounces jumbo pasta shells
1 1⁄4cups mozzarella cheese, shredded (Reserve 1/4 cup)
1cup parmesan cheese, grated
2 lbs ricotta cheese
2 large eggs, lightly beaten and 2 egg yolks
1 pinch nutmeg
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 8-oz. jar marinated artichoke hearts (reserve the liquid)
6 roma tomatoes, thinly sliced

olive oil

salt and crushed red pepper flakes
fresh basil, chopped, for garnish

In an 8 quart pot, bring water to a boil and cook shells for 8 minutes or until very al dente. Drain and cool immediately with cold water. Drain and place open side down on paper towels.

In a medium bowl, combine the rest of ingredients except the tomatoes and artichoke hearts. Season with salt. Reserve the 1/4 cup of mozzarella.

Place a thin layer of the liquid from the marinated artichoke hearts plus a generous drizzle of olive oil into the bottom of a 12 x 9 x 2 inch baking dish. Preheat oven to 375F.

Spoon the cheese mixture into each pasta shell and place open side up, in a single layer, in prepared pan.
Scatter the artichoke hearts in between the shells and cover everything with overlapping sliced of tomato.  Season with salt and red pepper flakes to taste. Loosely cover with foil and bake for 40 minutes.

During last 5 minutes of baking, remove foil and sprinkle remaining Mozzarella cheese on top.
Bake 5 more minutes. Garnish with fresh chopped basil.